The mere name of Cartagena de Indias speeds up the heart rate of more than one individual. It is the city that everybody wants to visit at least once in a lifetime while others cherish the dream of coming back over and over again. And this is because to avoid its magic is no easy task.
This piece of Colombia, fortified by the Spanish to protect it from pirates and corsairs which laid siege to the Caribbean, has become the country’s showcase when it comes to events and international relations.
UNESCO took notice of it and declared it Cultural and Historical Patrimony of the World and Colombians protect it and pamper it as one of their most precious treasures.
Islands such as Aruba, Curaçao and Jamaica, and beaches such as those in Cancun have much to envy from Cartagena since they are far from being able to offer the well-known and sought-after Caribbean: a city that combines its colonial tradition and maritime vocation with the purity of its style.
Some may wonder what is it that makes Cartagena such a fascinating destination. The answer will surely come from somebody with tourist’s eyes: its contrasts.
Seen from the air prior to landing it looks like a defenseless city with the ocean penetrating it through all its pores. Once in the ground all that is needed is to travel the few kilometers separating the Rafael Núñez Airport from the La Tenaza walls to start discovering its unquestionable and evident military prominence during the Spanish settling, which started in the 16th century, until it had the courage to become, on November 11, 1811, the first province to gain independence from the Spanish oppression.
And Cartagena was courageous not only during the War for Independence. It endured plagues and hunger, the Holy Office of the Inquisition, the implementation of slavery, and all of that due to its strategic geographical location in the Caribbean and the safety of its gorgeous and well protected bay which turned it into the epicenter of galleon’s routes and one of the most important fortifications in America.
Along with the fortifications that can be admired, such as the majestic San Felipe de Barajas Castle, the bastions, and even the buried underwater breakwater to prevent maritime access to the city, the Spanish built a magnificent colonial city baptized by the Cartagenian poet, writer, composer and industrialist Daniel Lemaitre Tono as the "El Corralito de Piedra" (The Little Stone Corral).
It is precisely between these narrow streets that its colonial past is more alive than ever thanks to the effort of hundreds of individuals that have taken on the task of returning the magnificence to old and dilapidated houses, and to state entities that have restored their share for the enjoyment of both natives and visitors.
With the opening of two prestigious hotel centers at the Santa Clara and Santa Teresa Cloisters, adaptation process which brought along a change of habits of a past reserved to cloistered nuns at the former and nuns of a lesser religious rigor at the latter, the Center brought a halo of nighttime recreation to its plazas in addition to its usual daytime congestion.
The nighttime Center went from being a space reserved for horse-drawn carriages hurriedly carrying couples more interested in a kiss than in admiring the endless row of old muted and darkened doorways.
Quite the opposite, today the Center is alive and a single ride is not enough to appreciate in its true dimension the architectural patrimony that the walled city has. That is why it is ideal to take a stroll in addition to the ride to go from one plaza to the other.
The same can be said about the coffee shops, bars and restaurants that operate in the Santa Teresa, San Pedro, Santo Domingo and San Diego plazas and their adjoining streets that offer a full array of specialties.
This is because Cartagena’s current cuisine is deeply rooted in its past. We can not separate the influence of its seafaring and port tradition in their eating habits as well as the Syrian-Lebanese immigration at the beginning of the last century and the assimilation of Chinese and Italian cuisine, which is why its menu offerings cover not only all budgets but also the most discerning palates.
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